🫒 (O)live Lokal: Kalamata

Gkionis Apartment

“An unmapped wild beach called by some locals “Piperitsa” (Πιπερίτσα), i.e., Small Pepper (or Small Pepper Tree). The apartment pinned on the map is a few steps away from the beach, which, however, includes a small but quite steep staircase to reach sea level, which you should be careful around. You can park either on the side of the main road, or check at the start of the gravel road (where the pinned apartment is), for any parking space in the open space beneath some o live trees. Make sure you don’t block access to locals’ houses or cars, they don’t appreciate that, especially after the increased traffic that Piperitsa has brought to their small local street.”

Από την Βέργα

“This map pin is not an error, bear with me. This beach, one of my absolute favourites, is literally off the map, so the closest I could give here is the store right opposite of the entrace for this beach. Once you reach this place, simply walk towards the downhill road (towards the sea). After a few steps, you'll find yourself in a remote beach, which is rarely ever crowded. Bonus tip: The unoffocial local name for this beach is "The Cold Waters" (Κρύα Νερά), since that's literally what they are, given that water from the mountain right above the beach, flows into this beach. It may sound intimidating, but given that Kalamata's waters are on the warm side, this beach offers a literaly refreshing change.”

Sadova beach

“Santova is a beach fairly far away from Kalamata itself, close to the previously mentioned beach of Piperitsa. Unlike Piperitsa, it has a much larger coast, sand, and both organised and unorganised beach portions. It's a great place to have long sunbathing session (with proper sunscreen always!), play raketes or other each sports with friends. ”

Kitries beach

“Another one of my favourite beaches, Kitries is sligthly farther than Santova, just 5 more minutes by car. During busy months and hours of the day, approaching too close to the actual beach by car is a bit of risk due to very high traffic combined with the areas very small and narrow road. If you don't mind a bit of walking, I would propose that you park sligthly higher up and walking the rest of the way towards the beach. As a tip, at the side of the uphill street, there is a narrow path that it easy to miss; if you take that passage, you will find yourselves on the beach, through a passage that not many people know, and avoid the main busy and narrow entrace to the area, filled with cars. Bad news is that most of the area has organised portions, but there are also small unorganised portions that are still very much worth the visit.”

Tricky Bar

“As I have already mentioned, I tend to avoid places in Navarinou Street. However, this is perhaps one of the few places I still visit, whenever I go for a non-wild beach visit, or just to enjoy a meal or coffee. This well-designed tiki bar has a great menu of smoothies, brunch meals, and also many cocktails, which is why you will also see Tricky as an option for a drink in the night. The sunbeds are not charged separately, so you will only pay whatever you buy in terms of food and drink.”

Kitries beach

“Remember the bad news about the otherwise gorgeous beach of Kitries? It's full of mediocre restaurants and cafés. In full honesty, none of them are worth visiting unto themselves. The seafood restaurant Gaitanaros has repeatedly served me (at best) mediocre food, and charged unreasonably high prices for it. The connected café “Achinos” operating alongside Gaitanaros is your best bet, but only because it has better sunbeds than the other choices nearby. All these stores just happen located in an attractive place, and I have never felt they provide any added pleasure. In short, you should visit Kitries for the natural beauty alone, but in the understandable case that you also want to sit on the sunbeds and enjoy a coffee or some food, I would advise to keep your spending at a minimum and allocate these savings elsewhere. Sunbeds will likely be charged separately, on top of any food or drink you buy.”

Akti Beach Bar Santova Kalamata

“Another beach already mentioned in the Wild Beaches section, Santova is also home to Akti (="Coast") Beach Bar. It's a pleasant all-day bar, that also has a ton of space on the other side of the street, overlooking the sea, which offers wonderful day-long shade, if you want to switch it up away from the sunbeds. For those interested, there is also a pool on this side of Akti; your milage may vary but the pool is often overcrowded with children on busy days. This is definitely an acceptable beach bar, with nice house music, acceptable food and plesant sunbeds. My only minor gripe is that, although I have been visiting Akti since I was a child, it's been a while since I last heard it hosting one of its beach parties which used to last until the late in the night and were truly incredible. Let's hope I simply somehow missed the memo and they are still keeping it real at night. Most sunbeds (depending on their location) are charged separately.”

BELVEDERE HOTEL- ΞΕΝΟΔΟΧΕΙΟ - ΚΑΛΑΜΑΤΑ

“Though I love wild beaches, I also live in Verga and sometimes feel lazy; the Belvedere hotel has a pool and is also located in Verga. I am sure you can connect the dots. Even if you are not nearby like me, keep Belvedere in mind if you don’t mind spending a day by the pool, instead of the sea, for whatever reason. As is true for Verga generally, the view from the Hotel is breathtaking. If you wish to visit, take a moment to call ahead and ask if there is room in the pool for you (because sometimes, e.g., if the Hotel is fully booked, they will prioritise pool access to hotel residents over external visitors). Also, in the early evening hours and until sunset, you will be hit by the sun, continuously. Depending on your tolerance, you will know how to feel about that :). Sunbeds are not charged separately. You only pay what you consume.”

Messinian Icon Hotel

“Did you like the previous entry of Belvedere but wanted something sligthly more bougee that was conveniently located a walking distance from Belvedere? Well you are in (oddly specific) luck! Still in Kato Verga, the 5-star Messinian Icon is another wonderful option for an identical setting as in Belvedere: pool, nice view. Regarding charging, during my most recent visit here, sunbeds were not charged separately, however each person had to spend a certain (rational) amount in food and drink (without spending anything extra just for sunbeds or pool use). Since you should call ahead to ask for availability anyway, it would be worth asking also for their pricing to avoid any charging surprises.”

Φλέρτ

“At the centre of Kalamata, Φλέρτ (literal expression of “Flirt” in greek characters), stands out for its relaxing yet playful design, rich menu, and joyful people who run the place. It’s also one of those places that inspires people to bring their laptops in, and do work or whatever else one does with a laptop in a café. I’ve tried everything from food, sweets, coffee to cocktails here; everything was great. I would feel comfortable getting anything on the menu, expecting it be just as great. Prices are at par with market prices in the general area, that is, reasonable.”

Athanassiou, G., & Co. O.E.

“Here is the exception to my “no-Navarinou stores” rule. The reason for including Athanasiou is twofold. First, I have been coming here since I was a kid. Second, I have drunk and eaten very very well here, countless times, since I was a kid. Strolling around town, you may notice that Athanasiou has multiple branch stores across Kalamata, not just this one store. I have visited most of them but I am a true regular at the Navarinou store specifically, though, as far as I can tell, the quality is identical in all branches. Dimitris and Giannis, the baristi of the Navarinou branch, have served me more coffees than I can remember and they were all pure joy. I would recommend a morning visit, so that you can also enjoy some fresh pastry that Athanasiou is also known for. Personal favourites include kaseropita, and mpougatsa; if you get them fresh, they are something else. Athanasiou have all-day menu so you can have proper lunch or dinner too, if you wish. Prices are very reasonable.”

Da Achille

“As I am writing this in August of 2024, this marks the first year of operation of Da Achille, located in my village of Kato Verga. I recently visited and got to know the family who runs this cafè-bar. Achilleas and his family are new to the food service, but made a good first impression, while also being very social and polite. Notably, having partially Italian routes, they know how to make great thin-crust pizzas, which I enjoyed. Obviously, being in Verga, the view is stunning as ever. Prices seemed to me a bit pricy for sweets and pizzas, i.e., 2-3 euros more expensive than I would expect. It’s not a major deviation from expected prices, but still worth mentioning for budget conscious visitors. Also, make the effort to call ahead before visiting, to make sure they are open - although, they told me the keep their online schedule (e.g., on Google Maps) info up to date.”

EXIS

“One of the locals’ long-time favourite, Exis café is found at the lower part of the city centre. This is also a spot that also remains particularly lively during winter months.”

Platea

“A well decorated place with interesting architecture that becomes particularly busy in the winter. Besides coffee, this place has a full menu for any meal of the day. Although I tend to stay away from this place because it gets overcrowded in the winter, it is admittedly a very nice place to be in, with good coffee and cuisine. I consider its cuisine superior to its nearby competitor, Bistroteca (which is otherwise a very similar store). It’s much less active during the summer months and I have honestly never visited in the summer, but you could very well do so.”

SOCIAL

“Another local favourite, Social is on the opposite side of the centre plaza, compared to Exis, but similarly lies on the lower side of the centre. Social also remains quite active in the winter and offer great brunch options too. ”

Luna Lounge

“Though this is primarily suggested in this guide as a great nighlife choice to enjoy some drinks in the pretty covered walk location (see 🍹Drinks section later on), Luna is also great for coffee, or even a nice glass of wine alongisde some snacls. I mainly visit this place in the winter, due to the coziness of the location.”

Kardamo

“This is first fully-fledged restaurant of this guide and it’s a solid one. Ideally, I visit this place the most at winter nights, since its interior really shines in this setting. Of course, for non-winter visitors, you can sit both inside and out. Also, I prefer to visit in the winter, when its interior really shines. Food and service here have been excellent across many visits over the years. I’d advise that you to call ahead and reserve a table if you plan on visit, since it can get busy, depending on when you visit. Prices here are medium restaurant prices, so you can expect to pay more than a souvlaki place, but, of course, they are two different animals.”

Φλέρτ

“Returning after its first mention as a café worth visit earlier in this guide, Φλέρτ is a great option to have a proper, as well, offering many yummy burgers, pizzas and salads and brunch options (served until 3pm). A highlight for me has actually been their bueno cake, which was divine. It was on the pricier side (€6.20 per piece), albeit the piece could easily be a two-people portion. I wouldn’t have included Φλερτ here, if its dishes were a mere afterthought, but I really can’t fault any of the dishes I have tried, for any meal of the day.”

Souvlakia Panagiotis

“Another souvlaki place worth trying. My father is especially fond of this place; I vividly recall sitting here as a kid, listening to my parents talk with Panagiotis and his wife over their soon-to-come daughter. She must be a teenager by now! The souvlakis here are on the compact side, as is the space outside to sit. It’s a small, pretty souvlaki spot in an alley next to the best little place of the centre; what else can I say.”

Ταβέρνα "Πετράλωνο"

“I couldn’t skip a long-running Vergan taverna. Petralono has been going at it for a long time, offering great food with the equally great, signature view of Verga. In all honesty, although the food is good, it is almost overshadowed by the natural beauty of our village, and the accompanying view. On the negative side, I should give you a heads up that the service is meh. To put it kindly, it’s not the best-run place, meaning that service may be a bit slower, than usual, but bear with it; if you manage your expectations on that front, you’ll have an otherwise amazing time. Depending on the time of day you visit (lunch or dinner), you can combine this visit with other nearby activities, like strolling around my beautiful village (preferably before you eat, cause it’s a mild hike, at places), or going to Da Achille, close to Petralono, for coffee or tea, or Arossa and Kastraki for a drink (more on nightlife later!), which are slightly lower down the same road as Petralono.”

Kreopolion 29

“A butcher shop turned steakhouse, this is a must-visit for those looking to try great, locally sourced meat. All dishes are carefully prepared and, irrespective of your choice, the meat, is of course, a particular highlight for its quality and taste. Interestingly, I have found the mood of Kreopolion (literally translates “butcher shop”) changes significantly based on the time of year you visit. In the summer, there is a terrace at the top where you can enjoy your dishes with a clear view of the sky above. In the winter, the ground-level interior area is open instead. In Kreopolion’s interior, I have been consistently getting chilly vibes - I think it’s due to the lighting. It’s nothing to be afraid of, but I thought I’d mention it, for extra context. The service is great and prices are slightly higher than you would pay in tavernas, but you are getting your money’s worth in high-quality dishes.”

AGRILIA

“Lower down than Petralono, but still in the area of Verga, this is another taverna that I personally prefer visiting in the winter, but you can definitely visit year-round, as it has a ton of outdoor space for dining outside during the warmer months. My family and I frequent this taverna a lot. Dishes are of the traditional variety, including many meat-based plates. For years now, though, my absolute favourite dish here been the “papata se pilino” (roughly translates to “potatoes in pot”). As the name suggests, it includes steaming hot potatoes, cooked in the very pot it is served in, alongside a variety of cheeses and, optionally, some bacon pieces too. I honestly don’t think this is under the umbrella of traditional dishes, but I love it to pieces. Service is good and prices are standard taverna prices. Music note: if you sit inside, the greek music that is playing non-stop, tends to be louder than I think it should. Depending on your tastes, this may impact your experience.”

Ksimeroma Kourkoutas

“This is a rather emotional pick, but deserves to be here regardless. Ximeroma means “dawn” in Greek. This was my late grandpa’s favourite place. He loved seafood (I don’t) and loved to take us all out in Ximeroma, to eat in long family tables. After he passed away, we stop going to Ximeroma. For me, it wasn’t as much due to emotional reasons, as it was my dislike for seafood. Nonetheless, the seafood here is great, the accompanying sea view is also a highlight, and if you are a fan of this cuisine, you should definitely visit. Fun mini story: I vividly recall a waiter working there, who, was the kindest, happiest, most genuine and polite person I have ever encountered. I unfortunately do not recall his name, but this kind man was one of the reasons why I vouched, from a young age, to do my best to be like him in many ways; so I owe this waiter a lot!”

Ταβέρνα Αλοίμονος Ηλίας

“A genuine family taverna through and through. Service runs at a chill pace. Food was great, from appetisers to main dishes; portions are moderate. I particularly enjoyed the small beef patties with tomato sauce. Prices are at par with general taverna prices. The absolute highlight here was the overall atmosphere of the taverna (I visited in the summer so I was treated to the taverna’s beautiful garden). The tables are placed in a spacious garden filled with olive trees, with low lighting. The lack of music, alongside the table placement resulted in a pleasant environment, as nearby discussions turned into inaudible ambience. This felt so well-balance that seemed meticulously thought-out, and it turned out that it was! Ms. Alimonou later explained that this was his late father’s choice, who even requested that, after he passes, she and the family should value and respect this decision. Sure enough, decades after, the tables are still spaciously placed, and the ambience is there.”

Μαγειρευτά φαγητά Καλαμάτα Μπρεζέ

“A modern take on the traditional cookshop. The place is small, mainly tuned for delivery and takeaway, but there are some tables outside for dining-in also. The food is great, but I found prices slightly higher for certain dishes compared to regular, established cookshops.”

Bros Angelou Chouliara O.E.

“Running for several decades now, this is considered as one of the OG cookshops of Kalamata, with most middle-aged locals having fond memories of getting food from here in their teens. Prices are very affordable with prices hovering around €6-7 depending on the selection.”

Voidokilia Beach

“🌈 The poster child of Peloponnesian tourism. A roughly 1 hour drive west of Kalamata, this iconic beach is beautiful, full of sand and also very crowded during busy hours and periods. For those interested in some background, Voidokilia translates to “ox-belly”, after the myth of Hermes who stole the oxen from his brother, Apollo and hid it in a cave about the beach. For the more practically inclined, it’s an Ω-shaped beach! And you can also hike to the aforementioned Cave of Nestor as well as the Old Navarino Fortress. As always, any hiking should ideally be done early in the morning, to minimise exposure to extreme heat. For the final cherry on top: The next place is extremely close to Voidokilia, and is ideal for having a meal after your visit here.”

Όπως παλιά

“A beautiful taverna in Petrochori, near Voidokilia, where you can enjoy local dishes under shade and in front of a jaw-dropping view. Although it's hard to find non-perfect greek salad in Peloponnese, the greek salad here is somehow especially fresh! Tip for night visits: The taverna often organises nights with live music, which usually eventually leads to some great dancing! Be sure to keep an eye out for such events and ask the people there, it's a experience worth having.”

Pilos

“ As you make your way towards the leftmost leg of the Peloponnese, it is worth making a stop in the nearby town of Pilos. There, you can enjoy a pleasant walk in the picturesque streets, or also enjoy a beverage around the port’s cafés.”

Methoni

“As you make your way back from your western excursion, you can opt to take the longer route, around the left leg (instead of the slightly faster, main road that directly links the region with Kalamata), to stop by some extra areas, starting with Methoni. You cane enjoy a stroll stroll here, have a(nother) drink and visit the Methoni Castle. If you are interested in the latter, make sure you check for info on the operating hours online, so you don’t visit while the sight is closed.”

Koroni

“Proceeding around the left leg, you will end up in Koroni, another great little town to explore. In all honesty, I have only strolled around there and according to my 🔑 golden rule (see Guide Basics) I will not propose any activities or places I haven’t experienced myself. But please feel free to explore and let me know what you ended up discovering.”

Kardamyli

“Our first stop, just outside Kalamata, Kardamyli is an enchanting little town by the sea. You can have a swim in Belogianni Beach, although I don’t consider it something to write home about. I’d rather spend my time checking out the nearby landmarks or having coffee in any of the various cute little cafés around -see the next entries for either of the two.”

Mourtzinos Tower

“A great landmark to check while at Kardamyli. There is a very small, immaterial entry price to pay. ”

Androuvista Café

“My café of choice while at Kardamyli. It’s a small, adorable café, with great shade and a nice location, just slightly hidden from the road, in its own little alley.”

Foneas beach

“Leaving Kardamyli and moving further south, we eventually reach Foneas Beach, one of the most famous beaches in the area. You know the drill: great, crystal-clear waters, a lot of people on busy days. Worth stopping by if you have the time, but do go over the rest of the list, if you are time-constrained, in case you wish to select only your favourites for a more time-efficient visit.”

Stoupa beach

“If sandy beaches are more to your taste, sligthly further south, you will find another known beach in the area, called Stoupa Beach. There are also a lot of places to grab a bite after your swim, there.”

Limeni

“If Voidokilia is the poster child of Eastern Peloponnese, Limeni holds the same title for the region of Mani. You’ll know why when you see it. Beautiful little houses populating the gentle hill, with crystal clear waters resting below. To have a swim, there is a platform where most people gather to get into the sea, although, if you look around much earlier before that point, there are certain small entrances for smaller, less crowded access points to the sea, around the coast. Usually, you will have to get down some stairs that are half-submersed in the sea, to enter the waters. Also, be careful of turtles that tend to appear in the area; they are beautiful creatures but people have occasionally been injured historically in the area - usually you will notice people mentioning it if they happen to appear when you visit, so you will be safe and informed.”

Mezapos

“Moving further down still, you will reach Mezapos beach. Funny story, I almost my GoPro here once, as I was capturing some underwater footage; I ended up diving again and again for 1 hours straight under the scortching sun, but I eventually recovered it and all was well. This beach has, you won’t believe it, clear, turquoise-coloured waters and is surrounded by tall hills, giving you a stunning view when you are swimming in the Mezapos waters.”

Gerolimenas

“Driving still south, you will find yourself in the coastal village of Gerolimenas. If you are pressured by time, I would propose that you skip this visit. The village itself is admittedly beautiful, but there just aren’t many great things to do there (save from a swim, which you will have probably had in one of the previous spots included in this list). In terms of food and coffee, any of the stores I have tried there, where mediocre and I wouldn’t propose that you go out of your way to try them. Still, a pretty village to definitely visit if you have plenty of time and, as an added bonus, the surrounding cliffs are lit up at night, making for quite a view.”

Porto Kagio

“For the last place, at the southmost part of Mani, as far as this guide covers, before we turn back up, one of my favourite locations that are less known that the viral Limeni or Foneas, is Porto Kagio. This is a small seaside village, that, when I visited it, blew me away by the sheer calmness it exuded. If you have made your way this far down Mani, it is a must, in my opinion, to go a bit further south and pay it a visit. An important note for car owners: The single, narrow street that runs across Porto Kagio, is really narrow, with little to no places to make a U-turn (which you will have to do at least one when leaving, but likely more than once, if you are looking for a parking spot). Having said that, if you are visiting during busy days/months, I would altogether skip parking in this road, and parking at the beginning of the road (the entrance of the village), or even prior to the entrance, to avoid stressful driving situations (which I have had and wouldn’t risk having again).”

Akrotiri Taverna

“This taverna served us great seafood by the sea, at reasonable prices. The young people running it were very polite and social. They also have a BnB in the same building, in the likely case that you are captivated so much that you want to stay overnight (which I almost did).”

Cafe Bar Spilia [[Laconia Peloponissos]] (Portokagio,Laconia,Peloponnisos)

“Overlooking the entire Porto Kagio village, you can enjoy a refreshing coffee or even a drink in the evening, beholding this stunning view. It is also worth considering walking a few minutes across the hill, to check a nearby landmark, and the accompanying views (included in the next place).”

Dioskouri Taverna

“Having visited this very recently, this a great place located on the edge of Kardamyli, with a wonderful view. We visited for an early dinner (or late lunch) around the evening, and experienced a gorgeous sundown by the sea, all the while enjoying very tasy food. Price wise, I believe we paid a bit more than we should, granted, portions are quite generous, from the salads to main dishes (like beef patties or pork). If you are budget sensitive, as long as you go easy on the plates, it won’t break the bank. Finally, we had the luck to enjoy portokalopita with a scoop of ice cream, as the sweet of the day, which was heavenly (as in, at par with portokalipitas from Cyclades Islands like Tinos, which are most the top for this kind of sweet.”

Gytheio

“In the eastern shore of Mani, you will find the pretty town of Gytheio. If you are starting this excursion from Kalamata and wish to skip (or have already done) the second excursion in the other side of Mani, you can use the new road with some inexpensive tolls, to find yourself in Gytheio in just a one-hour drive.”

Η Τριπλέτα

“Having had the luck of being shown around by a dear friend and local of Gytheio, I was shown this beauty of a taverna, alongside it's signature food. "Tripleta", which is the name of the taverna and the signature food itself, consists of the trio of fried bread, kalamaki and cheese. If you're in the area, definitely stop by. It's a beautiful place, run by beautiful people always full of energy, serving delicous food.”

Παραλία Μέσα Πηγάδι

“If you are looking for a serene, non-central beach in the broader eastern Mani area, Mesa Pidagi is a great choice. The waters are almost always calm, and the view is stunning.”

Η ταβέρνα της κυρά Μαρίας

“Again saving the best for last, The Taverna of Ms. Maria, is a breathtaking, place. As soon as my local friend showed this place to me, I went out of my way to visit it a second time very shortly after. I won't recommend any dishes in particular, simply because my friends and I have cumulatively tried almost the entire menu, and everything is as tasty and fresh as ever. If you're around, this is a must-visit. As if the place couldn’t be any more picturesque, keep your eyes out for baby doves! The place is also home to dove nests.”

Arossa

“A great place for a drink in Verga. I always liked the architecture of this place, which looks quite different than your average night time place: tables of various sizes and heights are laid out across a narrow, long building, while even more places to sit (with a wide range of different types of seats, even), are included on different sub-levels of this open-air structure (I like this verticality, a lot too). Needless to say, it’s Verga, so the amazing view is there to keep you company alongside your drinks!”

Memphis Bar

“Around a 20-30 minute drive from Kalamata, in the broader area of Avia (close to Sandova beach, for those keeping track of locations), there is a seemingly isolated place where you can enjoy your drinks. As it starts getting late, you’ll notice that it’s anything but isolated. This is a wonderful place to have a drink by the sea, where you’ll find simple chairs and tables laid out directly in from of the coast. I'll concede that the pictures here really don't do the place justice. The bar itself is on the other side of the road, while across it, you'll find the tables laid out. The music here is really good too. For those looking for an even more energising experience, you interior of Memphis is where you want to be, usually later on in the night, where things often liven up further.”

Tricky Bar

“A good nearby choice if either you don’t want to commute in the nearby areas to have a simple drink. Although this was included as a beach tiki bar to have a swim and sunbathe in the sunbeds, this is also a great place to try a variety of custom, refreshing cocktails. ”

Luna Lounge

“I particularly enjoy this place during the winter. Although this is a cute place to also have a coffee during daytime, it also because a lively hub in the night. Built in a covered walkway, you’ll find tables laid out across the entire length. Keep in mind that this place can get really crowded, so if you want to avoid that and enjoy a chill drink, try weekdays, or going relatively early if possible.”